Post Frame Building Guides

Practical guides written for people putting up their own building. Whether you are comparing a post-frame kit to a traditional stick build or ready to break ground, these sections cover the decisions that affect cost, timeline, and longevity.

Planning your building

Start with the purpose, not the dimensions. A garage that needs to clear a lifted truck needs a different door and height than a workshop that only stores equipment. Write down:

• What you are storing or doing inside now
• What you may need in five to ten years
• How much floor space and clear span you need
• Whether you need insulation, electricity, or plumbing

After that, think about width and depth in four-foot increments. Post-frame buildings are designed around standard post spacing, so rounding up to the next module rarely adds much cost and often makes the space more useful. A 30×40 building is usually a better value than 28×38 because it uses fewer cuts and better matches common truss and siding panel lengths.

Height matters. Doors, windows, lofts, and overhead storage all depend on wall height. If you are uncertain, add two feet. The cost per foot of wall height is low compared with the cost of replacing a door later.

Site preparation

A level, well-drained pad is the single best thing you can do for a successful build. Most of the site work happens before the kit arrives:

• Grading: Remove topsoil and grade the pad so water runs away from the building on all sides. A minimum slope of 5% for the first ten feet is ideal.
• Access: Make sure the delivery truck and a boom truck or forklift can reach the pad without soft ground, low branches, or tight turns.
• Concrete slab: Heritage kits include the structural building, not the slab. Most customers pour a slab after the shell is complete so the floor is protected during construction. Your local concrete contractor can quote this once the footprint is set.

Permits and codes

Every jurisdiction is different. Call your local building department before you order and ask for:

• Setback requirements from property lines, roads, and septic fields
• Maximum building height and square footage limits
• Snow load, wind load, and seismic requirements for your site
• Whether a site plan or engineered drawings are required
• Inspection points during construction

Assembly drawings and a detailed materials list come with every kit. Site specific engineered, wet-stamped plans are not included by default. Engineering services and stamped plans are available for an additional fee, starting at $2,775 per job, and cover the drawings a permit office typically needs. We do not pull the permit for you.

Homeowners associations and rural areas may have their own rules. Check HOA covenants and any agricultural exemption guidelines before you finalize the design.

Doors, windows, and wainscot

Customization is where the building becomes yours. Standard options include overhead doors, walk doors, windows, wainscot, cupolas, and lean-tos. The 3D designer lets you place these visually and see how they affect the footprint and budget.

Some practical rules:

• Overhead doors should be at least one foot taller than the tallest vehicle or equipment
• Place windows on the south and east sides for natural light, if possible
• Wainscot protects the lower siding from mowers, equipment, and weather
• Cupolas add ventilation and help reduce condensation in uninsulated buildings

If you want a residential look, you can choose house-style windows and a steel wainscot that matches the roof. For agricultural or workshop use, larger windows and a contrasting wainscot color are popular.

Insulation and interior

A metal building without insulation is loud and prone to condensation. Insulation is easiest to plan before the shell is complete, but it can be added later. Common approaches include:

• Vapor barrier: A reflective radiant barrier on the roof and walls to reduce condensation.
• Batt insulation: Fiberglass batts between girts and purlins, finished with an interior liner.
• Spray foam: Highest R-value per inch and best air sealing, but more expensive.
• Interior liner: Steel, plywood, or OSB panels that protect insulation and create a finished look.

Heritage supplies insulation products made for post frame construction, such as ThermaGuard under the roof steel. Traditional residential insulation systems are not part of a kit, so batts, spray foam, and interior finish work are sourced locally.

For heated or cooled spaces, talk to an HVAC contractor early. They will size the system based on insulation level, volume, and how often the doors open.

Maintenance and warranty

Post-frame buildings require very little maintenance. Once a year, check the roof for debris, clean gutters, and inspect trim and sealant around doors and windows. Touch up any scratches in the paint to prevent rust.

Heritage steel panels carry a 40-year paint warranty, and lumber is pressure-treated to industry standards. Specific panel gauges, coatings, and fastener warranties are listed on the materials page.

If you ever need a replacement part, your building plans are saved under your Heritage account, so we can match the color profile and trim details years later.